Pune-Allahabad-Varanasi and Back

It was 'Bhai weds Radhika' in Allahabad, the most awaited wedding of the decade and we had to execute every little plan we made for the wedding. Plan no.1 was - jaunt to Allahabad from Pune by road!

For Road Travelers. Here I share the kind of roads we drove on, places we visited and experiences we had.

Car: Green Chevrolet Beat.
2 expert drivers Anu&Akhu ;)

We start from Pune on 21st Nov, Sunday morning 4.30am.

(Petrol Full tank)
Pune-Aurangabad State Highway 27. (220km : 8.00 am), 4 lane good road, many villages, might cause jams during daytime) took 30 minutes to cross Aurangabad city.

Aurangabad-Ajanta SH8. (2 lane, bad road, many potholes, 10:00 am, 335km)
Breakfast break(50 mins) at Padmapani Park, a hotel on the highway in Ajanta: must stop place for refreshments. Serves amazing poha and gobhi paratha!

Ajanta-Pahur-Jamner SH8. (2 lane, nice quiet road).

Jamner-Muktainagar SH 185. (2 lane, ok road, a few bad patches of potholes).
(505 km, 2:00pm) – lunch stop on the highway, halted under a tree. We carried lunch for a week with us!

Greek Salad! Highly recommended for road travels, as it doesn't make you lethargic and you save time not stopping during daytime :)

At 535km there was a beautiful brook, but I guess we were 30 minutes too hungry!

Muktainagar-Omkareshwar-Indore NH6 & SH27.
70km before Indore, we turned right for Omkareshwar.

There was maddening traffic but surprisingly quiet, no body seemed in hurry, the traffic got cleared by its own, without no curses, no yelling. First feel good factor of a small town!

We reached Omkareshwar to find “Kartik Teerth” is on and our car won’t be allowed inside the city. We had to park it by the Narmada bank and walk to our hotel. There were thousands of pilgrims crowding the Narmada and hundreds of sadhus chilling out, smoking up!
We were not sure to park our car in the middle of such rush and walk inside the town not being sure of our accommodation. I wasn’t mad for a holy dip, we skipped Omkareshwar for less ruffled times and headed towards Indore.
It was already 5.30pm, Indore was still some 50km to go, we were running 1.5 hours late by our estimated time.

Night driving should be avoided in MP.

Indore: We reached Indore around 6.30 (a very north indian feel, young chhoras on speeding bikes as if they rule the city). Checked out ‘lonely planet’ hotel recommendations, unfortunately of no use. Foreign authors of lonely planet should be frugal in using the word “friendly” for Indian hotels.
After much seeking, we checked in Kalinga Hotel, good value for money. We haggled on the tariff and got a double ac room for 1200 rs.
Chappan(famous food-galli) was just five minutes, we grabbed some good-greasy-lip-smacking north Indian fast food, much appriciated after a greek salad lunch.
We had breakfast at Indian Coffee House in the Commissioner's office!

Petrol: Full
Indore-Ujjain NH3 & SH18. 10.25 am, “Ek number road” in the peanut seller's words. The route had lovely landscapes, broad 4 lane brand new road.

Ujjain is a historic city, considered as one of the seven major sites of hindu pilgrimage. With hundreds of bare feet devotees thronging the place, hordes of sadhu babas, colorful houses, narrow streets, decorated cows and elephants every where it had a queasy holy feel.

Ujjain ki galiyan

Frenzy around sacred jyotirlingam

Here you go master!

We checked in Shagun Lodge owned by a Sardar family (for 450Rs for a double non-ac room. Hot water on demand only, neat rooms though. Gurbani played all day on the reception!

We found a friend in Mahakaleshwar mandir, the pujari himself!! It was brilliant to get VIP entry and food (Prasad) with pundits.

Nothing fussy about Ramghat or Gopal Mandir.

Ujjain-Shivpuri-Jhansi-Orchha NH3, NH25, NH76, NH12A. (Reading: 734km, 5.30am )Bad road! But scenic, landscapes were breathtaking, small lakes, water bodies, lush green grasslands.

1.10pm stopped for lunch by a small lake on NH76

Few petrol pumps on NH76. Always start tank-full.

Orcha(Reading 1167km) – 20 kms from Jhansi. A fairytale city situated on the banks of Betwa river is a must halt for at least 2 days on your way to Kajhuraho.

Cenotaphs on Betwa

We checked in Betwa Retreat(MPTDC), 2084Rs for a double deluxe tent, with an ac and room heater, and a swimming pool a jump away. And not to forget yummy 'fresh river fish dishes', MPTDC serves amazing Indian food and has very friendly staff(not-only-to-foreigners).

Jahangir Mehal

Orcha was ruled by Bundeldas, their grandeur and pride is evident in the forts brave&beautiful architecture. It isn't less commercialized compared to Khajuraho and isn't popular among Indians. We could have easily spent a week there, doing nothing by the river.

Sun setting in Betwa

We hired rambling bicycles for 40rs (Raju's) a day (MPTDC Resorts offers brand new bicycles but 100Rs a day), and cycled around the nature trail. May be next time I will go for MPTDC bicycles! Nature trail in Orchha has variety of flora&fauna, it's a good place to hike or cycle around.

Sound and Light show at 6.30pm (Jahangir Mehal) stole our hearts; it made the fort come alive with light and music. Highly recommended!

Orcha to Khajuraho NH76, NH75.(9.00am. Reading: 1208km)
Khajuraho(Time 12:20 Reading 1395km)
We checked in MPTDC’s Payal Guest House. Rs. 890 for a double room, with air cooler. Definitely a good value for money, also it has got great food (must try aalu paraths for breakfast). Nice swimming pool and a great tutor there, who could teach swimming to a novice in 2 days without himself getting into the water! Unfortunately Akhu could take only one day class, so he is a half swimmer now :(

Stunning temples, western and eastern group, the gates open at sunrise around 6.00am, and the best time is to go is as early as the gates open. As you need at least 5 hours to see the temples and it gets difficult as the sun rises. Approved guide is for 700Rs, but they hurry you up, I would like to grok everything myself. Though they are good to give a head start.

Khajuraho-Mangwan NH75, NH7. (6.25am Reading: 1402km) Alright road with expected potholes.

Had breakfast of deep fried aalu parathas, when I so wanted to look my leanest in the wedding next day!

Mangwan to Allahabad NH27.

Orange, atrocious road, we drove at the speed of 8kms/hr. I would suggest you avoid Khajuraho-Satna-Reva-MangwanAllahabad route, instead take SH49 & NH76 (UP borderline road).

We reached Allahabad at 2.30pm.

Bhai’s wedding. Gal mitthi mitthi bol!!

Allahabad-Banaras NH2.(2.30pm. 3 hours drive)
We checked in Chatniya Guest House (Assi Ghat), which has only four rooms. Not very impressive but right on the ghat with a perfect Ganga View and 400Rs tariff!

We took a boat ride (350rs) from Assi Ghat to Dasaswamedh Ghat to see the aarti around 6.00pm.

Sunrise at the Ganga

A very spiritual and bold city where prayers and pyres take place at the same place!

I twisted my ankle dancing in bhai's barat and had to stay two extra days in Allahabad, reserved for Panna! We decided to take only necessary stops in our return journey from Banaras to Pune. In 46 hours we were home!

Banaras-Jabalpur NH7. (bad road, many bad patches took us 12 hours for a 450km drive!)

We reached at 7.00pm and checked in Hotel India (1400Rs), all hotels in Jabalpur don't entertain couples unless you are married, you need to provide a marriage certificate in order to get a room! We got lucky, my dramatic skills got us through! ha.

Jabalpur-Nagpur-Pune NH7, NH6, SH27. 1010km, 2 drivers (one injured), one stretch!

We started lazy after a good night sleep and Indian Coffee House breakfast at 9.30am. We had no definite plan on where to take an overnight halt, Nagpur was too near and all other place were too boring to stop. Undecided we started and while Akhu was driving I was surfing for good lunch places in Nagpur... Sudden epiphany!! "Akhu lets pack our lunch, dinner, snacks from Haldiram's, let's halt only for tea&pee, my leg is feeling better, I could drive too, Mah roads are good and safe, let's drive straight to Pune!" I suggested Akhil.

Driving taking turns for straight 20 hours we parked in Pune at 5.30am!