cont...Kashmir

Day 4:

Srinagar is famous for its picturesque gardens and now that I was back on land I decided to take a touristy troll.  I took an auto rickshaw to Mugal Gardens(Bagh Hussain), (10-15 min from Dal). It’s a pretty garden and I have my first decent view of the fresh snow clad Himalayas. I click.

While coming back I had an upsetting squabble with the tuk-tuk driver for he asked for extra fare than agreed upon. I refused! An alone desi female is not a familiar phenomenon in Srinagar; he stared at me, an obtrusive stare and got very loud and aggressive. I want to shake him and tell him, “I don’t fear you. Back off!”. I walk off…Startled and upset. 

Back in my hotel I was chickened out. My phone didn’t work, it’s cruel cold, I hadn’t had decent food in days, I didn’t see any familiar solo backpackers, and I missed home. I decided to book return flight L   

As always, morning brought hope.

I and me had a conversation and we both agreed to stay put together and face what more Kashmir had in store for me.

I searched for host families on couch surfing. A local family of 5 on the banks on Nageen Lake invited me to stay with them. Siddi, the younger son came to help me pack and move to their home.

After a welcome breakfast of Kashmiri bread and Kehwa I instantly felt at home.

And there was introduction of some warmth in my journey. Beigh family has hosted more than 60 guests this year!

Nageen Lake is quieter and less popular among Indian tourists. Definitely a better place to stay compared to the crowded Dal.

I had not eaten much in the city. It was so cold; my hunger was buried down under many layers of woolens. Now that I was donned in a ferren with kangdi and the cold is taken care of, I wanted to eat. 

personal fire-place to each one

burry me deep

The youngest daughter in the house Insha is a brilliant cook and an amazing spirited girl.  We went meat shopping to laal chauk and prepared ourselves a Kashmiri feast.

Food in Srinagar:

-       Ghostaba – Mutton meatballs cooked in curd with mint and whole spices.

-       Rogan Gosht – Mutton cooked in secret Kashmiri style.

-       Rista – Mutton meat balls in red chilly curry with whole spices.

-       Kehwa – Kashmiri tea with cinnamon, cardamom and saffron.

-       Kashmiri bread – Fermented wheat flour baked.

-       Cakes

Breads in Kashmir

 The mighty Paratha of Kashmir

Friday Namaaz 

Day 5: Gulmarg

Gulmarg is a must visit, 1 day return trip from Srinagar. Don’t pay thousands to private taxis; instead take convenient local transport.

Reach Sumo/Jeep stand of Batmalu (10min from TRC) early morning. Fare to Tangmarg  is 55Rs.

From Tangmarg to Gulmarg is 20min, 30Rs.

Comeback the same route.

Tip: Don’t act touristy, pretend like you know it all.

I see snow for the first time. “Sublime” is the word. Everything covered in a thick soft white blanket. I wanted to capture it all in my memory and my camera at the same time.

I’m not much of a writer to describe Gulmarg. And I feel prose can’t do justice to it’s beauty anyways.

Don’t miss World’s highest Cable car: Gandola. 1^st stage/2^nd stage Rs300/800.

I came back the same day as staying in Gulmarg is expensive and I guessed cheaper hotels wouldn’t have sufficient heating. It was -12 degree Celsius!

Next 2 days I stay at home, chat, eat and eat some more and shop. I learnt to work on aari (Kashmiri embroidery) over a million cups of tea with dropping in neighbors.

I cancelled my Pehalgam-Jammu-Amritasar-Solan-Katni trip come to be back in summers. For I had seen the snow and there are some beautiful treks I could only do in summers…  I’ll be back Kashmir. Thank you Beigh family!