Rang hai rang hai....

As far as my memory goes I have always wanted to travel alone...to be on the other side of the looking glass. In that wonderland, without any baggage without any itinerary, stopping at places I like, without getting stuck, moving without any motive, moving for the sake of moving.

After two years of office, 10 to 6 grind I knew if I did it for a day longer I will give up the ghost. Small trips were not doing me any good anymore; I needed a complete get away.

I put in my papers and pack bags to the state of vibrant colors, Rajastan.

15th Feb 2010. Jodhpur

Day 1

As a smart traveler I had already booked a hotel as I was arriving late in the evening. I had heard a lot about tourist-pickers in Jodhpur and how they have commission in anything they suggest you to stay or shop.

I step on the crowed station of Jodhpur at 8.30pm with my guardian antennas on, determined not to be fooled in my own country. I try my best not to appear touristy, but it doesn't work! Maybe it’s my out-sized tourist bag or my curious glare.

Trying to act all local I refuse the first auto that is offered to me for 50Rs (I don't know the regular price to my hotel, but I know they are overcharging), (mis)guided by my guardian antennas. I walk out of the station in hope to outwit the auto wallahas trying to outwit me! On the main road nobody is ready to take me to my guest house; it’s getting late and I am desperate for a hot shower and some food. After at least 10 unsuccessful attempts a sulky auto guy agrees. “50 rupe lagega, is too crowded in there”, he says. I utter an “ok” in relief. Drop your skepticism while traveling- lesson no.1.

The craft and speed with which the auto wallah wheels in that mad labyrinth bazaar, is incredible! Jodhpur at first sight is a crowded city, with narrow lanes and open drains. And there is that infamous smell.

“The Blue House” my guest house is located in the midst of old city, near the clock tower. It is run by a Jain joint family, that lives on the ground floor.

Fort view from Blue House

It isn't the ideal location I was hoping for. Children in the house bawl all day long and it has too much of a family atmosphere for my taste. But after a welcome masala chai and a hearty dinner of homemade moong-dal-kichdi I knew I can take it for 2 days. As most of the time I will be out sightseeing.

Day 2

I get up early. I always manage to do that while travelling. Maybe it’s the amount of oxygen present in the air or it’s my over excited blood cells. One good deed leads to another and I climb three floors to do yoga on the roof top! I tend to do that, squeeze all good things possible in one day like there is no tomorrow.

Walking will be my transport I had decided, for I need to lose 2 years of office lethargy.

Clock tower

Mehrangarh fort is 25mins hike from the blue house en route clock tower. I ask for directions like a moron “Bhaiyaa Clock Tower kidhar hai?” (hindi is my mother tongue) to my embarrassment an old guy looks stern and asks if I mean “Ghanta Ghar (hindi translation for clock tower)!” Yes! That’s what I mean! Use maximum local words you know, wherever possible- lesson no.2

Meharangarh Fort

Entry fee- Indian/foreigner Rs50/250. Camera fee- Rs100. Audio Guide-Rs150.

Colossal fort built on the rocky hill gives an impression as if it has sprouted out of the hill naturally. The balance of symmetry and asymmetry on a huge rocky hill is remarkable.

View from the fort

I had forgotten to charge my camera and it dies half way to the tour. In a way it is good because when I am clicking I forget to see or listen. I click like an obsessed novice photographer.

Audio guide is highly recommended for the fort. It’s informative, interesting and elaborate. The fort is enormous and needs good 3 hours at least to see. There is a lot of uphill walk so keep your glucose and peanuts close!

Phool Mehal

Phool Mehal is a room in the fort dedicated to the art of pleasure. It seems all the exotic beauty of India is squeezed into this room. I am also glad to see intact gold and silver carvings and museum full of precious things, one kingdom not looted by invaders for once.

Hand prints of the widows of Raja Maan Singh on the gate, before they immersed themselves in the funeral pyre. In 1843 last Sati of Jodhpur took place.

Open Palki

Palaki Khana (Palanquin Museum) Royal women travelled in covered or veiled palanquins (extension of Purdah system) while men travelled in the open ones.

This basket like cane palanquin is of the present Maharaja’s grandmother.

The story goes like...She was the first queen to go to London, and English tabloid were desperate to get her picture. But she got around the city in her cane palanquin to be transported in veiled Rolls-Royce. On the 2nd last day of her visit they got a glimpse of her feet, they rushed to print. Jodhpur party in London was outraged and bought every print before they made their way to India! We Indians are privacy-freaks! ;)

jaalis and zharokhas

The fort is full of jaalis and zharokhas. Designed in such a way for women of the fort that they can see outside but no one can see inside. Another extension of purdah system.

I have always been bad with directions. Walking down to the blue house for lunch I ask for directions at almost every corner finally mapping it out in my mind. But the map is in mind is like a map on the sea shore, fading with every wave.....

The Blue House has a beautiful roof top restaurant and a pleasant staff. Bad hygiene could be a reason to complain though.

While waiting for my roti and palak paneer, I make friends with the 13 years old cook-boy from Nepal. He gets talking to me and tells me how much he misses his family back home. He is wearing a torn, mucky t-shirt and looks at me for help. I feel guilty for not giving him money. Best I can do is not complain about the soil-y palak panner he made. I gulped my lunch quietly without chewing.

Jodhpur is a city with character. You don’t need to have you guardian antennas on all the time warning you from friendly smiles. Autos don’t quote you ten times more than the regular, side shops don’t abduct you to sell their things, boys don’t eve-tease and there are no beggars. :-D

I go to Jaswant Thada in the evening. 10mins walk from the Maeharangarh fort; ideally you should cover both at once. I take an auto from the clock tower (Rs50) as I didn’t want to miss sunlight for some good clicks.

Jaswant Thada

Entry tickets Indian/foreigner Rs15/30. Camera Rs25.

I click the first snap and it blinks ‘memory-full’. Shit! Not again. I had forgotten the memory card at hotel room. Lo kar lo baat!

My camera has an internal memory exactly enough to click 6 picturs. I am so upset with myself, that I almost cry to the lamentable Rajastani tune played by a local artist the courtyard of Thada.

There are Rajastani folk music artists sitting at strategical places in the monuments to echo the whole place with sad, heartrending tunes. I love Rajastani folk music, but at this time my camera situation makes me teary.

Jaswant Tahada was built in memory of Maharaja Jaswant Singh. It has beautiful milky white marble cenotaphs overlooking the whole city. It is also known as the Taj Mehal of Rajastan.

Walking down back to the city I meet Vicky the Omelet-Shop guy, very chirpy and a little too friendly. He is happy and surprised to know that I am not a foreigner. Still he does’t stop talking in English for he needs practice for his guide-test! I have a good chat, 2 boiled eggs, 1 masala omelet, 3 toasts and 2 chai for Rs40.

His menu card says, “Not recommended by Lonely Planet, but recommended by everyone else!” He is so furious with Lonely Planet which passed him as an imitator to the original Omelet Shop, that he collects testimonials from all tourists vouching for his omelets and other egg preparations!

There are many ATMs near the Clock Tower, I withdraw some cash and head back to the hotel.

Like a good traveler I wash my clothes and prepare myself for one more day in Jodhpur.

Incidentally I call up Jaisalmer hotels to book in advance and they tell me there is Desert-festival going on due to which all hotels are full. I surf the internet about the festival dates and it is to end on the 18^th, the day I was planning to go.

I decide to prepone my visit to Jaisalmer by a day. And request the owner of the blue house to help me find a room in Jaisalmer and book bus tickets. He makes a few calls and in the next 5mins I have a room, a bus ticket and pick-up in Jaisalmer. Hobo-kettle happy me!

The only concern remaining is my drying clothes.

I decide to come back to Jodhpur after Jaisalmer.